Rebuild sparton horn

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Does anyone know of a place, shop or business that repairs Sparton horns? Each time I fiddle with one, by the time I'm done cleaning and "restoring it", it no longer works.

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How can something so simple looking be so confounding! I believe the old horns all work on the same basic principle of contact points inside the horn to make them blow. The repair procedure is in our P15 service manuals.

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Also, a big problem comes when restoring the horns with the grounding after you've painted the horn. You have to make sure you have a good ground on the horns. Either use a star washer under the wire screw to scratch through the new paint or clean off the paint around the screw hole for the wire. If you don't have a good ground, the horn will not work. That said, if you do a search on the internet you'll find a site that repairs the old horns.

I found it once about a year ago.

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Did not bookmark it though and don't remember the name. Found it by accident when I was looking for something else. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

rebuild sparton horn

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Sparton Horn Repair and Pictures. Here are some pictures showing a Sparton horn with burned field windings. To be sure you wind the fields in the correct direction simply make a sketch before you unwind the fields. I should have made a note of the length and wire gauge, but I believe each field was 22 to 25 feet long and the wire was 20 gauge as I recall. Notice the left side of picture 5 shows only one insulating washer. That's because the concave fiber insulating washer is still in place under the head of the flathead screw.

There is a felt washer to keep out dust that fits around the head of the adjusting screw and is held in place be the rear cover. The last picture shows a very worn and dirty commutator. It looks like oil got on the commutator and mixed with worn brush material to make a grinding paste, which wore out the commutator. I don't recall the story on this one, but it might still work with a good cleaning and making sure the commutator is undercut about. Attached Images Horn1. Re: Sparton Horn Repair and Pictures.

Here are a couple more horn pictures. As bad as the Sparton looks, it might still work with a good cleaning and a new trumpet. If not, it still has a lot of good parts. The picture on the left shows the felt dust washer that fits around the adjustment screw. Notice the cover screw only allows it to be tightened enough to hold the cover, and not be screwed into the brush holder. Also notice how the wire terminals plug in from the ends of the clips, so they point at each other.

Attached Images Horn1d. Originally Posted by coupe. When redoing horn field windings is it "feet of wire" or "number of turns"? All the electric motor rewinding instructions I have seen use "number of turns" so I am confused, please explain.

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Quick links. I tried vernco. I've broken off one of the terminals and the horn only does a small weak bark when tried. I'd rather not open it up until I have some idea whats inside and how to proceed.

Joking aside, I've taken the back off mine before and there isn't a bunch of bits waiting to leap out at you. Mark the back so that you can put the two pieces back together in the same plane and open it up for inspection.

The problem I had to fix was caused by flakes of internal rust bridging the contacts within the back of the horn and a good clean out sorted this out. Perhaps you could post some inside shots for future reference. I have a Sparton Horn that I would like to get working and install. It looks like it's been apart once or twice.

Any diagrams for the inside? Any replaceable parts on the inside? Thanks, Dan. They are all similar in construction, but parts don't interchange. I've never seen any documentation or diagrams describing the inner works or tune-up procedures. The good news is, everything inside is usually in good shape, since the back enclosure is essentially sealed from the atmosphere. If it's been breached, and the insides are shot, your only source for parts is another horn.

You've just got to take it apart and see. Use a lantern battery and connect a lead to the one post of the horn, and then just touch the other post with a second lead from the battery??? Freedom has a taste the protected will never know". These horns draw a LOT of current, amps or more. You'll need a real 6v auto battery, or a 6v power supply that can deliver lots of amps. Your test method will work.

If it just "clicks", or doesn't make any sound at all, DON'T leave it hooked up, or it could overheat. Don't know what it was from. Any idea's. If you take the back off, you can see a manuf. Used on GMC trucks and also can be used on jeeps as motorpool restoration. Someone else may be able to elaborate on this a little more. Dimples in the back cover fit slots in the front trumpet.April 12,AM Welcome, Guest.

Please login or register. Visit the Charger Registry main site at www. Hall of Fame Member Offline Posts: Sparton Horn Rebuild. On the old board, TX9 Bill had posted a complete re-do of his horns. I can't recall if they were Prestolites or Spartons and I'm really not sure what is correct for our cars.

When I got my car it had 1 Sparton and 1 Delco-Remy horn, definately not correct. I tried to remember what I could of Bill's horn restoration, but I couldn't find any details on the new site here or over at DC. First of all, it doesn't hurt to take a couple of pics along the way to help with the re-assembly. I ground the backs of the rivets off and pounded them out with a punch. Then I cleaned up the contacts by pulling a piece of folded sandpaper through the contacts.

The diaphragm plates just needed a little cleaning but the posts were a bit corroded, probably the cause of the lack of tooting power. I also made new gaskets out of a file folder. After that, I clamped them back together and riveted them closed.

A bit of paint and they look close to original. A person could search endlessly to replace the original rivets but if anybody looks too closely at mine with a jaundiced eye, I'll just close my hood on their head!

rebuild sparton horn

One other note, not just any Sparton horns will work. I test fit them when I got them from Tolleyonly to find that the mounting brackets were opposite to what I needed.

I solved that problem by cutting off the brakets at the turn and re-welding them on facing the opposite way. I tested both horns after the paint dried and found, to my chagrin, that neither worked. I pulled both of them apart and with a lot of trial and error found that the diaphram needs to be isolated from the body of the horn. Odd, because this did not seem to be the case when I disassembled them, but maybe that is why they were not working.

Anyways, I coated the edge of each diaphram with liquid electrical tape and put them back together again. I also coated the rivets.The first thing you need to do when attempting to restore a horn is check it out electrically. If it can't be restored functionally there's no sense in going to all the trouble cosmetically.

Obviously, that means connecting it to a battery or charger and listening ear plugs might be a good idea in case it works! We did so with our subject horn, using a battery charger.

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It made little bleating noises, somewhat like a lamb from yards away. That meant a restoration was possible. Once a decision to restore was made we started taking the horn apart. Its rusted brackets were removed, then its domed hood.

Once that was done we had a mostly-disassembled horn.

rebuild sparton horn

Now we could remove the "guts" of the horn. Once that was done we could survey the extent of damage. The electrical side of the assembly was in very good condition, showing no appreciable wear, burning or even dirt. The other side, however, was caked with accumulated rust and blown-in debris from spending its life under the hood.

The rust was brushed off the horn's metal diaphragm and we were pleased to find no holes or rust-through. The paper gasket between the diaphragm and horn barrel was deteriorated, but we planned to replace it with RTV anyway.

Time to test for mechanical movement While new horns create their sound electronically, old horns worked much like speakers, just using more current. Horns used strong electromagnets that moved a central armature connected to the flexible metal diaphragm. When switched on the armature moved to its mechanical limit, disconnecting power to the electromagnet. As it relaxed back to its starting point, electrical contact was again made and the armature would start its travel again.

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The repeated movements of the armature created the vibratory noise in the diaphragm that carried out the horn barrel and into the air. Failure could occur in the diaphragm itself cracks, breakage, holesthe coils of the magnet or the switching contacts at each end of armature travel. All these needed to be inspected and checked out. Also, the total distance the armature travels dictates the sound of the horn, so we had to make sure we readjusted everything to come close to its original pitch.

A visual inspection of the mechanical components contacts, flex springs, general assembly showed they were in perfect condition.Terms Of Service. Privacy Policy. The Ford Barn FordBarn. Sponsored Links Register now to hide all advertisements. I need to troubleshoot my horn and I am not good with wiring so I want to make sure I don't blow something no pun intended.

Can I run wires directly from a 6 volt battery to the horn leads? That should tell me if its the wiring or the horn right? Re: testing a sparton horn? Any suggestions if it doesn't blow? What are the typical things to go wrong?

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A point file is your friend on thissun. Cleaning the points will get many silent horns squakin agin. In my experiance points are the 1 cause of mute horns. This is assuming you aren't trying to get rusty ones going. David J Quote:.

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Originally Posted by jim Jim, It would help to know which type of horn you have, motor driven or vibrator? The former have brushes as they have a small electric motor and the latter have the points that David J is referring to. My guess from your previous photos is that it is a motor driven horn. You should consult the wiring diagrams in your '32 book page A to understand where to place your test wires on the horn relative to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Both types of horns are sensitive to adjustment to work properly, especially the vibrator type.

In the case of the motor-driven type, the adjustment largely pertains to achieving the proper "ahooga" sound and not to the free rotation of the electric motor armature.

Attached Images horn. Jim, It is a motor-driven horn. While a little awkward, you can test it in place by removing the back cover which is held in place with a single round head slotted screw the lower of the two on the back cover -- see page of your book.

Avoid turning the adjustment screw the upper one and see if you can turn the motor armature by hand.


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